On
the equator at six o’clock each night, darkness settles quickly, and there in
the wilderness surrounding us, the earth quieted, the temperature dropped, and
we people spoke in hushed tones, wondering what our first night would be like in
a vast land ruled by lions, leopards, and Cape Buffalo.
We
didn’t expect Cape Buffalo to be a problem, but our director, Brian, warned us we
might hear lions or leopards walking around our tents. There’s a reason the
Maasai say that the day is for people but the night is for wild animals.
Tourists
flock to Africa to see wildlife
in
its natural habitat,
but
most of them stay in tourist lodges
protected
by walls and fences and guards.
We,
however, were experiencing Africa’s wildlife for real—
with
no walls, no fences—
with
only our flimsy tent wall surrounding us,
and
a couple of Maasai guards.
At
such a time, I suppose it’s normal to remember stories of lion attacks, and to
recall photos or movies or videos of a lion attack (click on that link). In “Top 10 of Africa’s Most Dangerous Animals,” the lion takes the lead
with an estimated 250 annually across Africa.
Another
article, “These Are The Top 15 Deadliest Animals on Earth,” states that “A 2005
study found that since 1990, lions have killed 563 people in Tanzania alone, an
average of about 22 a year.” At Eleng’ata Enterit we were within walking
distance of the Kenya/Tanzania border.
But
that night Dave and I slept well—perhaps exhaustion was a gift—and we didn’t
hear frightful noises.
In
the morning, we unzipped our tent and examined the ground for animal
footprints.
We
didn’t see any that morning, but on other mornings we did—massive footprints all
around the edge of our tent.
The unsettling moments—
the
most alarming moments—
were
the mornings when Dave asked me
if
I’d heard the big cat outside our tent
making
a low growl.
By
God’s grace, I slept through each incident.
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